Istanbul’s Schizo Istiklal
For most tourists and travelers, Istanbul’s Old city—the Sultanahmet area—encapsulates all the wonder, glory, and magnificence of the Byzantine and Ottoman empire. Its grandeur is spatially understood in terms of its publically designed squares and avenues, primarily focused with its glorified and monumental architecture within the framework of its unique urban layout.
As most cities, with a conscious effort for preservation of its rich and layered cultural history—in its tangible and intangible state—Istanbul may—for the sake of simple understanding—be divided into the more traditional and contemporary, understood more in terms of its usage, its people and in some cases its architecture. The old is famous for its tourism: maintaining its traditional charm, and its new: where its people have become more liberal, the city having spatially evolved, and Turkey’s overall persona reinvented and re-imagined.
Brochures and tourism videos make mention of the ever-famous Istaklal Cadessi (which may be translated as the Independence Avenue); a 3km pedestrianised walkway that begins in the historical district of Beyoğlu at Taksim Square and ends at the 2nd oldest sub-way in the Karaköy district. Mostly free of vehicular traffic, but swarmed with over 3 million visitors and by-passers on the weekends and holidays, the area takes on a distinct energy that in my experience- no other public avenue has. Dependant on the time of day, day of the week, and time of year, this bustling avenue takes on more personalities and contradictions than what the brochure will make mention of.
Boasting an endless variety of both local and international clothing outlets, bookshops, cafes, restaurants, food stalls, fruit vendors, bakeries, bars, clubs, tattoo parlours, shisha cafes, tea houses and so much more, lining both the street itself as well as the dozens of tiny lanes that branch off either side of the main avenue, I find it mentally strenuous when attempting to describe the ever-changing nature and sense-of place of Istiklal Cadessi.
The photos below represent my observations pertaining to the boisterous and dynamic nature of this “place”.
Typical weekend, illustrating the colossal density of this vibrant public street.
Graffiti festooned wall in one of the side streets of Istiklal, clearly illustrating the areas urban-artistic quality.
Public Valentine’s Day street performances, bringing large numbers of locals and tourists to Istiklal Cadessi for a day filled with romance and “other forms of consumerism”.
Street performers busking on the weekend and public holidays when not at school.
Roses being sold to bypassers and romantic hopefuls on Valentines Day.
Street beggars perform musical shows and other sorts of attention grabbing strategies to get the attention of by-passers.
Turkish (also known as Anatolian) rugs and carpets are hand crafted in a wide range of distinct styles originating from various regions in Anatolia. Important differentiators include: the materials, construction method, patterns and motif, geography, cultural identity and intended use.
Local having a traditional ‘cut throat shave’ at a traditional street-corner barber shop where the service is second to none.
Nestled about midway down the Avenue, SALT Beyoğlu is an innovative institution that functions as a gallery, museum, and research center for artists and enthusiasts alike.
The beauty in its architectural lines, in the voluminous spaces beneath its dome, in the airy opening out of its side domes, in the proportions and thickness of its walls, in the counterpoint of its support towers and its little arches, given the patina on its material palette- the Masjid acts as a spiritual retreat away (but within) the chaos of Istiklal Road.
These feral furballs number in the hundreds of thousands around Turkey, and are thus given free reign of the city: snoozing atop cars, shamelessly stalking by-passers and sometimes just wandering into shops and other establishments. Nevertheless, the cats of Istanbul surely give this area a mysterious and enigmatic character.
Bringing with it a delightful array of design and colour, gift shops bring with them an inordinate number of trinkets and memorabilia. My favourite is sure to be these hand-made illustrious mosaic lamps, created by skilled craftsman, who bring forth an enduring tradition of “special” light from the East.
Midye Dolma (Stuffed Mussels). You don’t have to be a seafood lover to get behind these delicious mussels. At first sight these appear to be plain old Mussels however, you’ll be surprised to find out they are actually filled with orange mussel, herbed rice, pine nuts and currants. You can’t walk a few blocks without running into a street vendor steaming these bad boys. Served with lemon the best way is to eat them right away. The vendor will crack one open for you. Squeeze on a bit of lemon and use the shell to scoop out all the street gourmet goodness.
Gigantic pomegranates and fresh juicy oranges are freshly squeezed by local street vendors for the affordable prices of 3 Turkish liras (about 1,5 euros or 2$).
Turkish delight is a family of confections based on a gel of starch and sugar where premium varieties consist largely of chopped dates, pistachios, hazelnuts or walnuts. Countless new flavours and assortments are on sale at almost every street corner.
A great deal of the Turkish local population are avid tea drinkers, usually paired with meals or as a social means when getting people together. Turkish tea is commonly known to be of the traditional black or apple flavoured type. Local merchants make custom fruit mixes to provide customers with a disconcerting array of flavours.
Renowned bakery and ice cream parlour Mado makes a uniquely special, gooey kind of ice cream which hails from Kahramanmaraş, an eastern Anatolian town.
Turkish water pipe gardens and restaurants provide a social setting where locals and foreigners enjoy the fruitful taste of a local nargile, typically coupled with Turkish coffee or tea.
Often called a hookah or hubbly by English speakers, and sheesha in the Arab world, the nargile was very popular during the Ottoman Empire, and still provides a platform for people to get together and relax amongst friends.
The best way to describe the nightlife is explaining its rather seductive social scene.
Numerous and varied offerings are sure to appeal to any patron whether looking to experience a raucously energetic time or a relaxing, low key atmosphere. From the area’s vivacious clubs to the more mellow pubs, Istanbul is a treasure trove of nightlife that any night owl can appreciate.
The best way to conclude a fun filled day, absorbing and reminiscing over the many identities and experiences this area had to offer, is by indulging in a traditional Turkish lentil soup while planning your next mission.
What’s most fascinating is that so much joy, excitement, lust, inebriation, sorrow, pain and suffering may be experienced within an utterly dynamic, multifaceted spider web of urban planning. Istiklal road should not be assessed on face value, but rather observed, understood and experienced from the perspective of someone more curious than just the average by-passer.
______________________________
